| Author | Message | ||
     Fara Shimbo (Fara_shimbo) Powdery Mildew Username: Fara Shimbo Post Number: 45 Registered: 04-2006 |
One last footnote: The truck is home. Bob and I went to see if we could move it today and a friendly neighbor, seeing our plight, came with a huge 4WD truck and some chains and pulled the truck across the stream. Good thing this happened, too, as while we were waiting for the neighbor I began poking around the rose ditch and found a rose I didn't realize was there. All the roses in the ditch are Damasks of some kind... except this one! It has a couple of suckers... do I have space for one more sucker? | ||
| Mel Hulse (Kernel) Bug Squasher Username: kernel Post Number: 82 Registered: 09-2004 |
Maybe we should start another thread... OK. Check under "Propagation and Exchange." | ||
| Mel Hulse (Kernel) Bug Squasher Username: kernel Post Number: 81 Registered: 09-2004 |
"What I wonder about with the terrarium method is, how do you tell if things have actually rooted?" Simple. I leave the cuttings in the Terrarium much longer than I do with baggies. I can do that because terrariums I use provide much more headroom. In other words, I leave the cuttings in until there is no doubt they are established. This is needed because the rooted cuttings go directly from terrarium to containers in a shaded area. Mostly, I transfer the cuttings by taking a large hand full of soil/roots and plop it into a band half full with my brand of damp potting soil. I have more damp potting soil at hand to fill out the band. Once established, after at least a couple of weeks, I move the cuttings up to 1s, 3s or 5s. | ||
| Kay Cangemi (Mad_gallica) Bug Squasher Username: mad_gallica Post Number: 54 Registered: 01-2006 |
Control over the conditions is one reason we root in the basement under lights. We switched over to peat pots so we could better see the root development. I know some people use clear plastic cups for that too. I refuse to discuss the year we had a 4 ft boot tray full of cuttings and wrapped in a plastic humidity tent. I'll just say it took us three years to unload it all. Since then, we do baggies in small numbers. I should also probably refuse to discuss why the jack from a 1977 Buick Electra is among my gardening tools. | ||
| Fara Shimbo (Fara_shimbo) Powdery Mildew Username: Fara Shimbo Post Number: 43 Registered: 04-2006 |
Bright light but no direct sun... Hmmm... I got a plastic closet-sized greenhouse-thingie a few months ago, I wonder if that might work, especially if I stick a humidifier in it. It zips up nice and tight. What I wonder abou with the terrarium method is, how do you tell if things have actually rooted? Maybe we should start another thread... | ||
| Mel Hulse (Kernel) Bug Squasher Username: kernel Post Number: 80 Registered: 09-2004 |
I stopped using the baggy method because I start so many cuttings. 9 years ago, I had 125 baggys on my covered deck! Big job keeping them sprayed and blown up! Also, I couldn't leave them for more than a day. The important thing about the terrarium and baggys, for that matter, is having a place with bright light, but no direct sun. | ||
| Baldo Villegas (Sactorose) Bug Squasher Username: sactorose Post Number: 40 Registered: 04-2005 |
Hay Fa: I think it is time to throw in the towel and call the for a tow truck! Otherwise keep us posted on the truck saga. Thanks for posting the picture of the collection site. | ||
| Fara Shimbo (Fara_shimbo) Powdery Mildew Username: Fara Shimbo Post Number: 42 Registered: 04-2006 |
BTW, folks, thanks immensely for all the care tips for the suckers! They're all appreciated and mostly followed. | ||
| Fara Shimbo (Fara_shimbo) Powdery Mildew Username: Fara Shimbo Post Number: 41 Registered: 04-2006 |
Picture of the truck?! Okay...  I went yesterday and dug a trench so the water from the sinkhole drains into the irrigation ditch. The ground around the truck looks dry, or dryish, but when you try to walk on it you sink in. But you can see where the roses grow. Mel, you're not growing cuttings in baggies anymore? I just started that last year after having absolutely no luck growing cuttings in a terrarium. All the suckers seem to be doing fine today. So of course they're talking about thunderstorms this afternoon. Sheesh, if we get thunderstorms the poor truck might get washed into the ditch! | ||
| Cass Bernstein (Cass) Bug Squasher Username: Cass Post Number: 129 Registered: 01-2006 |
Baldo, the Juwel cold frame is available from AM Leonard for $115 and also from that place in Grass Valley...Peaceful Valley Farm Supply or something. Peaceful Valley never sent me the unit I ordered. AM Leonard rocks and also has really good garden markers for those of us who suffer from the disappearing label gnomes. http://www.amleo.com/index/item.cgi?cmd=view&Words=JWSCF | ||
| Jeri Jennings (Jeri) Rowdy Rosarian Username: Jeri Post Number: 331 Registered: 01-2006 |
The two most common problems for me are drainage and regulating the amount of sun and heat at this time of year. *** This has been a HUGE problem for us this year. First, we got some 95-deg. temps in FEBRUARY, then the temperature dropped. It's been chill and dank ever since, temps running a good 10 deg. below normal, with no sun. Yes, I do need to get that Jewel cold frame. Jeri | ||
| Baldo Villegas (Sactorose) Bug Squasher Username: sactorose Post Number: 39 Registered: 04-2005 |
Cass: I will be using my interpretation of the Kernel-Jill Propagation Model. However, everytime I try it I modify it. is the Juwell Model the one originally develop by Jill? Otherwise, I am not familiar with it. | ||
| Cass Bernstein (Cass) Bug Squasher Username: Cass Post Number: 127 Registered: 01-2006 |
Good luck, Baldo. That new growth is pretty lush. I have better luck in July through October. There are many variation on the Kernel and Jill Perry's terrarium method, and they do work very well. It's just a little greenhouse. The two most common problems for me are drainage and regulating the amount of sun and heat at this time of year. To resolve drainage, I now use the clear rubbermaid boxes and simply turned them upside down over my cuttings in bands or pots. With the sun as high as it is now, I'd definitely watch the placement. Mine is on the north side of a tree that give is filtered light mid-day and full sun the rest of the time. I have a cold frame that does the same thing, and I highly recommend the Juwel model. | ||
| Baldo Villegas (Sactorose) Bug Squasher Username: sactorose Post Number: 38 Registered: 04-2005 |
Cass: I can't think of a better expert than you! Thanks for the many cuttings of roses yesterday. I will be trying to root them as well as bud them this morning. I still have to have another cut of coffee before I get out and start playing in the roses. I am going to try my traditional methods of rooting cuttings as well as the Kernel's method. I got me an old aquarium which will be filled with rooting media as well as rose cuttings by the end of the day just to see if the Kernel is right. Baldo | ||
| stephen scanniello (Steprose) Supreme Crown Gall ! Username: steprose Post Number: 429 Registered: 01-2006 |
Excuse me, but I consider you an expert. Cass's advice is very good advice, especially since you are in a dry climate. photo of the truck? | ||
| Cass Bernstein (Cass) Bug Squasher Username: Cass Post Number: 126 Registered: 01-2006 |
Oops! My apologies. I see this is area is for experts. Consider my post erased. | ||
| Cass Bernstein (Cass) Bug Squasher Username: Cass Post Number: 125 Registered: 01-2006 |
If the sucker didn't have many roots, you're essentially growing an oversized cutting. I find it particularly helpful to mound the soil to keep the cane from drying until it produces new grow. New roots produce new growth and vice versa. This works even is the original soil line ends up far underground. | ||
| Mel Hulse (Kernel) Bug Squasher Username: kernel Post Number: 79 Registered: 09-2004 |
I agree with Jeri in general, but my rule of thumb is to cut the part above ground to the size of the part below. Two meters a day? Gee. In 500 days it will have been moved a kilometer. That should be enough! ;) | ||
| alida ray (Altora) Bug Squasher Username: altora Post Number: 98 Registered: 10-2005 |
last year i tried to plant 4 or 5 suckers but they didn't live. this year, i dug them up as soon as the ground thawed out. one has leafed out, and doing well, the others are still green but slow to leaf out. not sure if they do better while they are still dormant? I was sent some suckers about a month ago, but they had plenty of roots and are fine. everything else has little or no root. | ||
| Jeri Jennings (Jeri) Rowdy Rosarian Username: Jeri Post Number: 328 Registered: 01-2006 |
Oh dear oh dear, the poor truck! Fa, I'd just cut away the really soft, wilted green growth. If it's not wilted, I'd leave it. But that's just me. Jeri | ||
| Fara Shimbo (Fara_shimbo) Powdery Mildew Username: Fara Shimbo Post Number: 40 Registered: 04-2006 |
Okay, so... I went down to the ditch today and dug up as many suckers of... whatever it is that's down there (there were at least four and probably six different flowers last summer), and planted them, watered them in. They came in various conditions of root, some with lots of roots and some with only a little. Some just seemed to go into the ground and say, "Ooo, this is nice, I'll live here," and some immediately wilted. They are about a month behind the roses in the garden and have at most only one or two leaves per break. I'm aware (and that's unusual for me!) that one is supposed to prune suckers when one plants them in this way. Is this so? If it is, how much do I prune? Or do I just leave them alone? Any other tips for giving them a good start would be appreciated. The truck, by the way, is still in the Great Grimpen Mire. We moved it... oh, maybe two whole meters yesterday... |